Long Before Dior and Chanel No.5 —Aromachology in Action

Olfactory Intelligence since ancient times

Living in the 21st century has, by far, been the most delightfully easy time for us as consumers to experience products and ingredients that, for so long, were too rare for more people to even dream of. As we mentally travel back to thousand years of human history with this article, we realise the things which are just a buy away were not easily accessable to any, excepts the gods in the temples and the kings and queens along with thier favoured ones. This historic journey of fragrance is a story of exploration, creativity, and craftsmanship, spanning centuries, crossing cultures, and captivating the senses of all who dare to explore the roots of its intoxicating allure.

Perfume was popular in ancient cultures of many part of the world. From the temples of Egypt to the gardens of Persia, fragrance played a sacred role. It began simply, almost humbly: with petals, resins, and herbs gathered from the wild, crushed and steeped in oils under the sun.

Today, we trace the journey of the perfume industry, from the enchanting practices of ancient Egypt to the sophisticated scents of today’s world.

ANCIENT EGYPT/ The era of the Pharaohs

In ancient egypt, sun god RA was hugely worshipped deity and its not a strange fact that people related perfumes with the sweat of sun god. Another god which was dedicated to beauty and perfume was Nefertem, the god of lotus blossom. Lotus flowers were a cornerstone of Egyptian perfumery, with the blue lotus, an iconic symbol of ancient Egypt that holds particular significance. Alongside this sacred flower, other aromatic plants such as henna, water lilies, roses, and cinnamon were carefully steeped in oil to craft exquisite perfumes, reserved for the elite. The pharaohs, nobles, and royalty would adorn themselves with elaborate wreaths and scented headdresses, while perfume cones made of beeswax and infused with fragrant oils were worn atop their heads. These cones gradually released their intoxicating aromas throughout the day, signifying both wealth and divine favor. Perfume, in ancient Egypt, was not only a symbol of luxury but also a spiritual offering, linking the wearer to the gods and enhancing their connection to the divine world.

Right: Painting of the 13th century BCE showing women in ceremonial attire, one at least wearing a perfume cone. Left: the Memphite god Nefertem with a water-lily headdress as a symbol of fragrance and beauty.

ROMANS & GREEKS/ Empires of strength, wisdom, and unyielding beauty

In ancient Greece, olive oil was the most popular base for perfumes, often blended with various woods and plants to create exquisite fragrances. For the Romans, the most sought-after ingredient for fragrance creation was frankincense, which remains one of the priciest scents to this day and also its symbolic trees, on verge of extinction. For the Romans, frankincense was used in baths, beauty rituals, and even applied to the soles of their feet. In addition to frankincense, pomegranate rind, sweet marjoram, and cypress were other key ingredients in the fine perfumes of ancient Rome.

Putti fresco (detail), House of the Vettii, Pompeii

ANCIENT CHINA/ From Silk to Scent

China, historically a treasure trove of unique herbs and flowers, has long been a center of perfume-making, rivaling the ancient Egyptians and Romans in its love for fragrance. Yet, the Chinese approach focused less on the mere creation of scents and more on preserving the transient beauty of nature’s aromas. The fleeting fragrance of flowers, herbs, and plants was captured in intricate relics, born from the country’s deep appreciation for silk garments, giving rise to the creation of perfume pouches. Known as Hebao or Xiagbao, these pouches became a cherished tradition. Emperors and Empresses would carry them not only for the good fortune they were believed to bring but also to surround themselves with fragrant air, enhancing their regal presence with a soft, aromatic aura. The pouches were symbols of both elegance and superstition, representing a harmonious blend of beauty, culture, and divine protection.

ANCIENT PERSIA/ The Fragrance of Royalty and Mystique

Royalty across the globe has long shared a common obsession with perfumes, and ancient Persia was no exception. Darius the Great, the mighty King of Persia, was one such ruler who held an intense fascination with fragrances. His historic reliefs often depict him holding perfume flowers in his hand, symbolizing his love for scent. Among all the ancient civilizations, Persia made one of the most significant contributions to the advancement of perfumes, especially during the Middle Ages. It is widely believed that the famous Persian philosopher and chemist, Avicenna, conducted groundbreaking experiments with perfume, ultimately pioneering the process of alcohol distillation. This discovery led to the creation of liquid perfumes, as we know and use them today.

The bas-reliefs of ancient Persepolis depicting Darius the Great holding perfume flowers

INDIA'S KANNAUJ/ The fragrance capital

In the heart of ancient India, Kannauj stood not just as a town, but as a living, breathing ode to fragrance. Revered as the perfume capital of India.The traditional attars of Kannauj, distilled slowly from roses, sandalwood, and a hundred sacred botanicals, were sought after by Mughal emperors and commoners alike. They perfumed the wrists of queens, the air of palaces, the sprays of fountains, even the steam rising from spiced delicacies. In Kannauj, perfume was not simply made, it was born of tradition,and handed down like poetry to next generation of perfumers. Through these generations, it lingered for more than 400 years.

The Mughal emperor Jahangir and his queen, Noor Jahan, are often regarded as Kannauj's first royal patrons of perfume, a connection that would forever shape the region’s fragrant legacy. It is said that the true bond between royalty and fragrance began with Noor Jahan during a simple moment. One day, as she bathed in waters infused with rose petals, she was captivated by the delicate, lingering scent that filled the air. The aroma was so entrancing that it sparked an immediate fondness for rose attar, the precious perfume distilled from the roses of Kannauj. Her appreciation for this fragrance soon became well-known at court, and the queen’s admiration turned into a lasting passion that influenced the Mughal elite. As Noor Jahan shared her newfound love for Kannauj’s perfumes, the town’s reputation as the heart of India’s perfumed history was born. What started as a personal indulgence for the queen grew into a royal trend, forever linking Kannauj to the luxurious world of Mughal fragrance.

Beyond Kannauj, India’s luxurious floral treasures, such as the exquisite jasmine and revered sandalwood, lie at the core of some of the world’s most coveted luxury perfumes as most pricious scents in the world. Guerlain, one of the world’s most profound perfume houses, sources Jasmine Sambac oil from India, using it in many of their signature fragrances. This rich, exotic floral note plays a central role in the brand's perfume formulations, particularly in Mon Guerlain, the soft and beautiful fragrance by this heritage perfumery of France.

Fresco at former royal palace at Bundi (Rajasthan, India), depicting an indian princess smelling perfume.

MEDIEVAL ITALY TO FRANCE/ Catherine de Medici, the Queen Who Perfumed a Kingdom

Though perfumes were deeply cherished in the ancient world, their allure remained undiminished during the Middle Ages as well. The upper-class European society carried Pomanders, small scented balls or bottles attached to chains, to ward off foul odors that became an essential tool in an era when unpleasant smells were rampant due to poor hygiene and the spread of disease. These Pomanders were crafted from wood, porcelain, or metal, and were worn around the neck to both enjoy their fragrance and protect against the plagues that haunted Europe. Inside, they contained a mix of herbs, spices, and ambergris, a waxy substance from a whale’s stomach. It was widely thought that perfume could ward off the Black Death, and it was no surprise that medieval doctors would scent the beaks of their iconic bird masks with dried flowers, herbs, spices, and vinegar. They believed that illness spread through foul odors, and these aromatic masks were thought to protect them from disease by keeping away the noxious air.

A pomander, from French pomme d'ambre, i.e., apple of amber, is a ball made for perfumes, attached by a chain to a finger ring and held in the hand. They were used in the late Middle Ages through the 17th century.

In the 14th century, medieval Italians pioneered alcohol-based perfumes, marking the beginning of a new era in fragrance. By the 1600s, the famous Eau de Cologne was introduced, further cementing Italy’s reputation as a leading purveyor of fine perfumes. This tradition was carried forward by Catherine de Medici, the royal princess who married France’s King Henry II. While Catherine was often vilified for her political manipulation and involvement in massacres, she also brought many cultural treasures to France, including the art of perfume-making. She famously brought her personal Italian perfumer with her to France upon her marriage. Catherine not only used perfumes for personal enjoyment but also as a weapon, using scented gloves to poison those she sought to eliminate.

Eau de Cologne or simply cologne is a perfume originating in Cologne, Germany. Originally mixed by Johann Maria Farina (Giovanni Maria Farina) in 1709. Here are two old brands still functional- one Farina and other 4711 which are making perfumes since 18th century. Farina was created in 1709 by Johann Maria Farina in Cologne, Germany. He is credited with creating the first version of Eau de Cologne, which became immensely popular.

The Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella is a perfumeryand herbalist shop in Florence, Tuscany. It is not a pharmacy and does not sell medicines, but is sometimes described as "the oldest pharmacy in the world. It was founded in 1612 [413 years ago]. Catherine de Medici, the queen of France was one of the pharmacy's early patrons.

Perfume once marked the boundary between the classes, a delicate veil of scent worn only by the wealthy, a symbol of nobility and refinement. Unlike today, when a bottle of scent can be found on vanities across the world, in earlier times, fragrance was a rare luxury, its cost was so high that only a privileged few could indulge. Pomanders, those ornate, fragrant orbs, swung gently from the belts and necks of the elite, never gracing the hands of common folk. But by the 19th century, everything began to change. As the centuries passed, innovations in perfumery and the rise of synthetic fragrances democratized scent. The complexities of fragrance, once cloaked in secrecy and reserved for the few, became available to anyone with the desire to experience luxury in a bottle.

The art of smelling divine was no longer the sole domain of the rich and powerful. It became a shared delight for all.